Wednesday, May 01, 2024

The depth of expression, culture, and competence around this place utterly belies its benighted backwater status in the wider surfing world, and in particular with the Media Overlords from California, who seem to think they somehow own the franchise, despite that group of Hawaiians and Tahitians standing over there, laughing right out loud at them.

But money talks, and fools listen, eh?

And the Roots run deep and wide, and this place is very well-rooted indeed.

Always was, always will be.

And let the money keep right on talking, and let the fools keep right on listening. The two kind of go together in a way, and if the goal is to be the self-appointed center of attention, with fools hanging in suspense on your every word... well... have at it, I guess. They're your company, not mine.

Nor were they Tom Blake's, either.

And what Tom did, and what those early pioneers did, was bad-ass in the extreme, and although the follow-on Media of decades later sought to extirpate it, it refuses to die, and you can get a glimpse of it yet, this very day, if you know where and when to look, and who and who-not to listen to.



Wednesday, May 01, 2024

Keep it low. Keep it clean. The ride's the thing, all else is bullshit.

And riding 55 pounds of rockerless square-rail nightmare, all 12'-9" of it, ain't no walk in the park, dearie.

It's a violent sport, completely separate from whatever it is that all the rest of them are doing out there on their plastic, and it's very definitely not easy to do, and simply getting the goddamned thing around into proper trim requires no-fucking-around strength and skill to accomplish.

And if you fall off?

And if it hits you?

It'll break your bones.

Even on a gutless two-foot wave in a benighted backwater of the wider surfing world.

Maybe try it for yourself one day, if the opportunity presents itself.

Test yourself.

Seeing is not believing, but surfing sure the hell is.